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Off the Beaten Path
Story by Joanne Curcio-Quiñoes
Whether your fantasy getaway calls for a secluded beach bungalow, a centuries-old plantation in the mountains, or a jungle-wrapped rainforest retreat, chances are you won't have to wander too far from home— Puerto Rico has just the ticket for turning your craving into a reality.
If you think you must pack your bags and head for the airport to set out on a quest for adventure, think again. There's a growing new breed of savvy travelers who are cutting to the chase by choosing a place to stay that's an adventure in itself—and right here in our own backyard. Fortunately for us, Puerto Rico 's accommodations are as distinct and diverse as its culture and attractions and include a bounty of unique spots to plop down your suitcase and escape the ho-hum of the ordinary vacation. And the best part? –no buses, trains, planes or associated hassles. The getaway begins as soon as you step out your front door.
Here are a few of the many anything-but-ordinary places to escape to right here in Puerto Rico .
The Gallery Inn, Old San Juan
If you ever wondered what you'd get if you crossed a museum with a guesthouse this Old San Juan landmark inn would be the answer. Artist Jan D'Esopo and her husband Manuco have spent the last 47 years creating a masterpiece out of the rambling 17th century townhouse overlooking the feisty Atlantic Ocean on one side and the quaint cobblestone streets of Puerto Rico's capital city on the other. But it's not about what surrounds this family inn that makes it special—it's what lies within.
“I think of it as my lifetime installation,” said D'Esopo, an internationally-known artist and sculptor. Literally tens of thousands of works of art line the walls, floors and tabletops of the awe-inspiring maze made up of 26 guestrooms, a half-dozen tropical gardens and terraces, several artistry workshops, two formal dining rooms, a library and a concert room. Also featured among the six adjoining historic Spanish row houses is a swimming pool carved out of the walls of 18th century ruins and a sculpture garden where the inn's colorful pet macaws and cockatoo hold court amid molds of faces and heads that peer out from crumbling ancient walls and jut from the soil between tropical ferns.
Every nook, cranny and guest room has either been impeccably preserved or restored and purposefully decorated to inspire and entertain. “We've made it so that around every corner there is something to look at, to read, to photograph, to admire or to listen to,” explained D'Esopo.
The inimitable inn draws not only art aficionados from around the world that come to take part in the many artistry workshops offered there, but also a host of talented international musicians who take part in impromptu classical music concerts in the Gallery's intimate music room. This Old City inn was chosen by National Geographic Traveler magazine to be part of its 2009 List of the Top 129 places to stay in the U.S. , Canada , Mexico and the Caribbean . But don't just take National Geographic's word for it—go see for yourself—and you'll understand why.
Casa Cubuy Eco Retreat
There's probably no better place in Puerto Rico for a next-to-nature experience than Casa Cubuy Eco Retreat, a bed & breakfast nestled in the mountainous jungle boundaries of El Yunque National Forest. The tree-house-like inn is the ideal antidote to the hustle and bustle of city life, and after just a couple of days in this tranquil Garden of Eden, even the most restless Type A personality would find true gratification from simply swinging in a hammock and listening to the sounds of the jungle below.
The rooms are uncluttered, clean and comfortable, and most have balconies with panoramic views of the flora, fauna and lush hillsides of the U.S. Forest System's only tropical rainforest. For the most part, life at Casa Cubuy is quiet—during the day you won't hear much more than the calls of birds and sound of rushing water in the rainforest, and at night you're lulled to sleep by a sweet symphony of coquís, our beloved indigenous frogs that chirp after dark.
Aside from the other guests you might meet lounging on the veranda by the honor bar or at the family-style fresh fruit breakfast served each morning, most of the company you will keep at Casa Cubuy will be the birds, tree lizards and other critters that call the rainforest home. There's plenty of hiking and exploring opportunities here and the well-marked tree-fern-lined paths and trails just below the homey lodge lead to rivers, streams and waterfalls with water so clean and pure, you can drink from them.
With no televisions, radios or in-room phones, Casa Cubuy is the perfect place to escape reality and indulge in nature. Strangely enough there is free WiFi service, but to experience the full effect of Casa Cubuy's stress-busting benefits, it's probably a good idea to leave the laptop behind. And while you're at it, silence the cell phone.
Villas Del Mar Hau, Isabela
This is the quintessential beach getaway, much like the one you see at the end of a movie, the escape for the star who lives happily ever after. This is the Caribbean that people from the mainland dream about, but you won't hear any Jimmy Buffet music or find
a crowded bar serving cocktails with umbrellas here. This little piece of waterfront paradise is quiet and serene with a laid back tropical lifestyle and dress code that doesn't include much aside from bikinis, board shorts and flip flops.
The row of candy-colored cottages line what's probably the calmest stretch of sea on Puerto Rico's otherwise feisty western coastline and the clean and comfy little beach houses offer enough privacy and creature comforts to help you feel at home, although the scenery is a constant reminder that you are worlds away. The sandy stretch of coastline is the highlight of the private beach compound, but there's more to do here besides soak up the sun and snorkel. There's a swimming pool, basketball and tennis courts, a volleyball court, game room and general store, as well as a stable for horseback riding. There's also an open-air oceanfront restaurant that serves up some tasty creative and classic local cuisine and fresh seafood. There're also quite a few quite good restaurants and watering holes nearby if you want to venture out for a change of scenery, but chances are you won't want to.
As you might imagine, Villas Del Mar Hau is an extremely popular vacation spot for locals who've uncovered this secret beach-blessed hideaway, so reservations are not always easy to get, though definitely worth the effort.
La Hacienda Juanita
At night, the cool crisp mountain breeze can almost make you forget you are on a tropical island. This 24-acre family-owned farm nestled 1600 feet above sea level in the verdant mountains of Puerto Rico's Cordillera Central is a 19th century coffee plantation transformed into a graceful 21-room guesthouse. Its décor is laced with old world charm and includes antique pillar beds, beautifully restored furnishings and carefully preserved relics from the bygone era when coffee was king in the island's quaint central mountain towns.
The Hacienda's restaurant, La Casona de Juanita, has a small museum dedicated to coffee production that you can browse while you wait for typical Puerto Rican specialty dishes that reflect the island's fusion of Taino, Caribbean and Spanish roots. Aside from experiencing firsthand what the island might have been like back in the coffee plantation days, bird-watching, nature hikes and romance are some of the favored activities of guests to this lush, quaint and historic hillside retreat.
Bahía Salinas
One of the island's more upscale paradores and one of the closest to offering resort-style luxury is in the southwest beach town of Cabo Rojo . Bahía Salinas is a 27-room hacienda-style inn with elegant four-poster beds, its own a spa, two swimming pools and an award-winning signature restaurant.
“It was a really refreshing change from staying in the city. I loved the authentic ambience, the fresh, delicious food, and the fact that I was able to get up in the morning and sit down to a cup of freshly brewed Puerto Rican coffee with the inn's owners,” said mortgage banker Syrma Quiñones of her recent stay at the parador in the island's far southwestern corner.
“It was quiet, relaxing, and without the crowds you encounter in the Metropolitan area, but at the same time there was no mistaking that I was in Puerto Rico . This is the real deal.” Bahia Salinas' owner Miguel Rosado said the property recently underwent a major renovation to attract more affluent visitors who want a little bit more than the basics that most paradores offer.
And the family-owned and operated inn delivers on that promise. Add Bahía Salinas to that list of spots that you must-see-to-appreciate. |
